Leopard Gecko
Care Guide
10 - 20 years
Lifespan
Solitary
Social
7 - 10 Inches
Size
Rocky Grasslands
Habitat
This care sheet is one of many sources. Research thoroughly and consult multiple references before taking on the responsibility of an animal.
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Enclosure
Leopard geckos thrive in spacious environments.
A 90 × 45 × 45 cm enclosure is the recommended minimum for an adult. Set everything up and leave it running for at least 7 days before bringing your gecko home - it gives you time to confirm temperatures and humidity are stable before any animal is involved.
Glass tanks are well-ventilated and easy to spot-clean. They're widely available and a solid default choice. Options on Amazon start around £90 - there's no meaningful performance difference between a cheaper glass tank and a more expensive one; it's purely aesthetic.
Glass
Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
Aesthetically prettier than alternatives | Generally more expensive |
Widely available | Heavy and awkward to move once set up |
Easy to spot-clean | Loses heat faster in cold rooms |
Good ventilation | |
Easy to monitor your gecko through all sides, |
The easiest and most common option in the UK, wood vivariums start at around £80 and are popular for a reason. Easy to put together, attractive, and available everywhere.
These are my preferences!
Wood
Wood-pros | Wood-cons |
|---|---|
Budget friendly | Limited visibility from multiple angles |
Excellent heat retention | |
Front-opening doors less stressful for gecko | |
Access doesn't disturb lighting equipment | |
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I have the least experience with PVC, but it is essentially a lighter-weight wooden vivarium. Often they are more expensive, but they can look a lot nicer too.
Their main benefit is that they are much happier with high humidity species than a wooden vivarium is, which will warp over time - not a huge factor with Leopard Geckos.
PVC
PVC-pros | PVC-cons |
|---|---|
Lightweight | Generally more expensive than wood or glass |
Excellent humidity resistance, won't warp | Less widely available |
Can look very sleek and modern | Humidity resistance is a minor advantage for leos |
Front-opening | |
Easy to clean |
Assuming they are 90 x 45 x 45cm, and not smaller, tubs are entirely fine to use for Leopard Geckos. However, they are a little more cantankerous to use than front-opening enclosures - generally, you will have to remove all the lighting to access the enclosure.
Additionally, it's important to note that UVB will cause most tubs to become brittle with age.
Tubs
Tub-pros | Tub-cons |
|---|---|
Cheap and lightweight | Not aesthetically pleasing |
Very easy to clean and replace | Harder to fit full lighting and heating rigs |
Simple to modify for ventilation | Limited visibility |
Ideal for high risk quarantine | Plastic will become brittle with age |
Can I use a smaller tank to start with?
It's not recommended. Leopard geckos benefit from space to thermoregulate — moving between warm and cool areas is how they manage their body temperature. A smaller tank makes creating a proper temperature gradient very difficult.
Does the enclosure need a lid?
Yes. Leopard geckos are more capable climbers than people expect and will escape if given the opportunity. A secure mesh lid is standard for glass tanks.
Why 7 days before bringing a new gecko home?
It lets you test that your heating and UVB are reaching the right temperatures and UVI before an animal depends on them. It's much easier to fix a problem when there's no gecko involved yet.
Substrate
Substrate is the bedding on the floor of the enclosure. For the first 6 weeks of ownership (the quarantine period), paper towels are mandatory regardless of what you plan to use long-term.
After quarantine, and once your gecko is over 6 months old, the options below are all appropriate.
Homemade Mix
This is a mix of 60 - 70% organic topping soil, and 20 - 30% play sand.
You can also add in small amounts of Sphagnum moss, excavator clay, and charcoal.
This mix is naturalistic, allows for bioactive setups, and is the closest to a leopard gecko's natural environment.
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Earth Mix Arid
My personal favourite, this mix looks really nice and comes in conveniently sized bags - one 10L bag fills a 90 x 45cm floorspace nicely.
This is a great, less messy, option.
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Paper Towels
Paper towels are the safest substrate for quarantine, sick animals, or very young geckos.
They don't provide a natural environment, so they shouldn't be used long-term for healthy adult animals unless necessary.
Will loose substrate cause impaction?
Impaction from naturalistic substrates (soil/sand mixes) in otherwise healthy geckos is uncommon and not well-supported by evidence. Impaction is far more associated with the unsafe substrates listed above, or with geckos that are already unwell. Healthy geckos kept at correct temperatures and fed appropriately are very unlikely to impact on soil-based substrates.
How often should I change my Leopard Gecko's substrate?
You should be spot cleaning (removing poop and any dead insects) daily. If your enclosure is not bioactive, the substrate should be switched every 6 - 12 months
How deep should substrate be?
At least 5–8 cm is ideal for naturalistic or bioactive setups. This allows for naturalistic digging behaviour and, in bioactive setups, gives the clean-up crew somewhere to live.
Heating
Leopard geckos are ectothermic - they rely entirely on their environment to regulate body temperature. Getting temperatures right is not optional: too cold and digestion fails; too hot and you risk burns and stress.
Temperatures and humidity should be monitored with a digital thermometer and hygrometer.
Primary Heat Source: Incandescent Basking Bulb
This type of bulb is commonly available, inexpensive, and, according to research by Thomas Griffiths, the Exo Terra Daylight Basking Bulb produces an extremely even beam, perfect for Leopard Geckos.
All heat sources MUST be connected to a dimming thermostat in order to be safe and effective.
Secondary Heat Source: Non-Light Emitting
In most households, where nighttime temperature does not drop below 16°C, leopard geckos do not need heating overnight.
However, if your home does get colder, or you have an older or otherwise compromised gecko who may need additional warmth, ceramic heat emitters and Deep Heat Projectors are both excellent options.
Neither produces an appropriate ratio of infrared for primary use, but both are well suited to boosting ambient temperatures or providing overnight warmth.
Thermostat
A thermostat, not to be mistaken with a thermometer, is the device a heat source plugs into. You set a target temperature, and it uses a probe to ensure the heat source does not exceed it.
While a 50W bulb can reach almost 50°C - a temperature deadly to leopard geckos - a thermostat keeps your gecko safe by dimming the bulb down to a safe level.
Thermostats are absolutely, 100% necessary, and are one piece of kit I do not recommend cheaping out on.
A failing bulb dies. A failing thermostat burns.
Timers
All lighting must be off overnight.
While some thermostats, like the Habistat Digital Dimming Thermostat, have a built in timer, many do not.
I personally use the Tapo Smart Plugs. I use an app to set all of my lighting schedules and it makes it easy to switch bulbs off should I need to reach into an enclosure without burning myself.
More on how long to leave lights on in the UVB section.
⚠️Unsafe Heat Sources
❌ Red Bulbs - Geckos can see red light; it disrupts their sleep cycle
❌ Heat Mats - Inefficient for leopard geckos and a burn risk if not thermostatted correctly See Are Heat Mats Safe for Leopard Geckos? for more info
❌ Heat Rocks - Unpredictable hot spots; serious burn risk
Measuring and Controlling Temperature
There are two temperatures you need to monitor in a leopard gecko enclosure: the hotspot and the ambient.
The hotspot is the surface directly under the basking bulb, where you encourage the gecko to bask. Directly under the bulb there should be a piece of slate (slate absorbs heat well and is relatively flat) that the gecko can climb onto and bask on. This area should be measured with a temperature gun pointed at the surface of the slate, and should read between 32–36°C. This is also where your thermostat probe should be pinned down: on the surface of the slate, where your gecko actually sits. Not on the wall, not floating in the air, not tucked behind the vivarium (seriously). On the slate.
The ambient temperature is the air temperature measured, at minimum, on the cool side of the enclosure. This should sit at around 23–26°C and is measured with a digital thermometer. Many kits come with dial thermometers that stick to the side of the enclosure. These are not only unreliable, but I have personally seen geckos badly affected when one fell off and stuck to the animal itself. Separating a gecko from adhesive is a long and painful process, and an important reminder that sticky things have no place near our reptiles.
I never see my leopard gecko basking - is something wrong?
Assuming your gecko is healthy, eating and pooing normally, and your enclosure is well set up with adequate clutter, they are most likely basking when you're not watching.
A few things that can encourage basking:
-
Lean your slate against a branch or cork bark, so the gecko can get underneath it if they want warmth without feeling exposed.
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Keep your basking bulb on for an hour before and after the rest of your lighting switches on and off. This simulates dawn and dusk, and in my experience geckos make excellent use of this window.
-
Double-check your temperatures and adjust within the 31–36°C range. Some geckos genuinely prefer it a little cooler and will bask readily at 32°C but not at 36°C.
Do I need to heat my Leopard Gecko's tank overnight?
In most UK homes, no.
As long as your ambient room temperature doesn't drop below about 16°C overnight. If it does, a Deep Heat Projector on a thermostat overnight is the cleanest solution, as it doesn't produce light.
UVB
Leopard geckos are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk) and benefit significantly from UVB.
The recommended UVI for leopard geckos is 0.5–1.5. The Arcadia Shadedweller kit is the go-to choice for most setups. Lighting should replicate seasonal variation: 14 hours in summer, 12 in winter. No lighting elements should be on overnight.
Summer Lighting Schedule
Basking Bulb: 6am - 10pm (16 hours)
LED: 7am - 9pm (14 hours)
UVB: 7am - 9pm (14 hours)
Winter Lighting Schedule
Basking Bulb: 7am - 9pm (14 hours)
LED: 8am - 8pm (12 hours)
UVB: 8am - 8pm (12 hours)
Basking Bulb is on for an additional hour on each end, to simulate dusk and dawn. This is prime basking time for Leopard Geckos!
Supplementation
Supplementation can feel high-pressure for new keepers - images of geckos suffering from MBD (metabolic bone disease, a painful and preventable condition caused by calcium deficiency) make it feel like something that is very easy to get wrong.
Ultimately, it comes down to balance. Leopard geckos need calcium with most meals, and that calcium will come either with or without Vitamin D3. If you provide UVB, your gecko will synthesise its own D3, so you do not need to supplement it. Opt instead for something like the (in my opinion, very confusingly named)
Arcadia's EarthPro-A for regular feeding. This is a multivitamin and mineral supplement with calcium and various other additions that fill in the gaps in a captive gecko's diet.
Every 3–4 feeds, swap to a plain calcium supplement like the (again, very confusingly named) Arcadia's CalciumPro Mg. This is straight, plain calcium with magnesium, and just ensures your gecko isn't getting too much of a good thing when it comes to multivitamins.
I have deliberately not included a schedule here; they are hard to stick to, particularly when multiple animals are involved, and some are skipping meals. If a schedule is your preference, Arcadia's Insectivore Cycle is a good starting point.
What is UVB?
UV, or ultraviolet, is a type of radiation. There are three types: UVA, UVB, and UVC.
UVB has a medium wavelength and reacts with a compound called 7-DHC in the skin, converting it into previtamin D3, which goes on to regulate calcium and phosphate metabolism in the body.
In nature, UVB is provided by the sun, but it does not penetrate glass well, so for pet reptiles we must provide it via specialist bulbs.
It is important that the bulbs we use are high quality. Cheaper bulbs, or bulbs that are the wrong type, can produce uneven or unpredictable UV output, which risks burns and incorrect D3 synthesis.
Bulb Shapes
There are many UVB bulbs on the market, but the only safe options are linear tube-shaped bulbs from reputable brands. These offer an even, reliable spread of UVB and have been independently tested to confirm they output what they claim.
UVB levels are measured with a Solarmeter, but for most keepers, following established online resources for bulb strength and placement distance is the practical approach, as solarmeters are around £200. Read: Do I need a Solarmeter? →
For an internally mounted Arcadia Shadedweller 7%, place the basking spot 30 - 45cm below the bulb.
For the same bulb placed on top of an Exo Terra enclosure (which blocks approximately 35% of UVB through its mesh), 16 - 25cm from the bulb is optimal.
There are a number of unsafe bulbs on the market, avoid these:
❌ Coil Bulbs
❌ LED UVB Bulbs
❌ Any bulb older than a year old that has not had it's output tested
How Long do UVB Bulbs last?
This varies between bulbs. Arcadia bulbs last around 12 months, although if you have a Solarmeter you may find they last even longer.
Other brands last around 6 months - it is worth checking the instructions for your specific bulb
It is important to note that a bulb that is no longer emitting UVB will still produce visible light - it will look no different to us, which is why keeping track of age matters.
I don't see my Leopard Gecko using their UVB - will they get MBD?
Many leopard geckos do not bask directly under their bulbs - they are, after all, crepuscular prey animals whose primary predators in the wild are birds of prey.
Instead, many exhibit a behaviour known as cryptic basking. They will hide, but extend a leg, tail, or nose out into the light to absorb UVB. They do this naturally and often secretively, and it is just as effective as open basking.
A healthy gecko in a well-set-up enclosure will not ignore safe levels of UVB and allow itself to develop MBD.
Do Albino Leopard Geckos need UVB?
Not only do they tolerate UVB - they thrive with it. The advice used to be to use lower-strength UVB for albino or lighter-coloured geckos, but this is no longer the case. They adapt perfectly well to standard UVB levels and will bask just as readily as non-albino animals.
They may take a little longer to adjust to the light, particularly if they have come from a rack system with limited light exposure.
What happens if I don't give my gecko UVB?
It was only in the last few years that the hobby moved away from the 'belly heat' myth and recognised that leopard geckos do not, in fact, spontaneously combust when given access to lighting.
For years, the answer was multivitamin powders containing synthetic Vitamin D3. This addresses the physiological need for this crucial compound, but does not offer the behavioural enrichment that natural basking provides.
Leopard geckos left without UVB, adequate calcium, or synthetic Vitamin D3 (in the absence of UVB) will develop metabolic bone disease (MBD), also known as rickets. Their bones become soft and malformed due to calcium deficiency, and although bone density can be restored with correct supplementation, the bones will not re-form into their original shape.
The condition is likely very painful and has less obvious effects on organ function as well.
Diet
Adult leopard geckos should be fed every 4 - 7 days.
A healthy adult's tail should be roughly the same width as their neck, with visible muscle tone in the arms and legs. Insects should be gut-loaded before feeding - carrot, sweet potato, courgette, broccoli, and cucumber all work well.
What Insects do I feed my Leopard Gecko?
Adult leopard geckos can eat a variety of insects, including various beetle larvae, cockroaches, and cricket species.
For more information on what specifically to feed, check out this post.
Weight & Body Condition
"My gecko weighs 60g - is that healthy?"
A common question, but a flawed one. Leopard geckos, like humans, have different baselines and body structures. Some geckos would be overweight at 60g; others would be emaciated.
The best way to assess whether a leopard gecko is at a healthy weight is by using a Body Condition Score. Rather than relying on a single number, you look at the whole animal - muscle tone, neck width relative to head width, tail thickness, and belly shape - and compare what you see against a reference chart. This ensures you are making an objective assessment of the whole gecko, not just one data point.
This gecko shows a good body condition. Her tail is roughly the same thickness as her neck, which tapers nicely into her skull. When she curves, she does not have fat rolls on her belly, and she shows clear muscle definition in her arms and legs.
Her belly sits above the ground when she walks - she looks strong and capable of moving and hunting comfortably.
Toileting
Leopard geckos reliably choose one corner of their enclosure as a toilet - cleaning is very easy as a result. Like birds, their urine is solid and white, combined with faeces in one spot.
It's important to check that this solid urine (urite) is white. Yellow urites are a sign of dehydration.
Faeces should be solid, with no clearly undigested insects, worms or mucus.
Gutloading
"You are what you eat" applies here, and owning a species that eats live food involves keeping insects happy and healthy.
If left unfed, your feeder insects will slowly starve and lose a lot of nutirional value, so it's important to keep their tubs topped up with veggie scraps. Carrot, sweet potato, courgette, broccoli, and cucumber all work well.
My Gecko won't eat - is this normal?
This depends heavily on context. Leopard Geckos will go off food for a variety of reasons, most commonly because they are in a new environment, or due to breeding season cycles.
For a more detailed look at what is and is not normal, check out: Why is my Leopard Gecko not Eating? Causes and solutions
How do I help my Leopard Gecko lose weight?
Weight loss should be done very slowly, and in extreme cases, under the guidance of an exotic vet.
Feeding fewer insects per feeding is one of the main ways to help a Leopard Gecko lose weight - it's important not to just reduce feedings as that will mean they are not getting adequate supplementation.
Increasing the size of the enclosure, offering opportunities to hunt inside or (if the gecko allows) outside of the enclosure, and using correct lighting also help.
Do Leopard Geckos have favourite foods?
Absolutely, and it is part of the fun of keeping this species!
Many have individual preferences, but soft-bodied insects tend to be a common favourite - silkworms and wax worms especially.
How do I help my Leopard Gecko gain weight?
Gaining weight is more complicated than losing it. If the gecko is otherwise healthy and has been confirmed to not be sick or suffering from an abnormal parasite load, simply feeding a little more often - every 3 - 4 days as opposed to 5 - 7, is the trick. Do not reduce enclosure size or discourage hunting - building muscle is just as important as gaining a fat tail.
If your gecko is emaciated and you don't know why, always seek the advice of an exotic vet.
General Care
The day-to-day care of a leopard gecko is straightforward once the enclosure is set up correctly. The main areas to stay on top of are shedding support, regular handling, vet registration, and keeping the enclosure clean.
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Shedding
Leopard geckos shed about once a month. Keep the moist/humid hide damp at all times - this is the most important thing you can do to support a clean shed.
They will eat the shed skin. After a shed, check toes and tail tip carefully for stuck shed, which can constrict blood flow if left.
Cohabiting
I don't condone cohabiting leopard geckos. Cohabiting causes chronic stress even when the animals appear to tolerate each other, and can result in injury, resource competition, and shortened lifespans.
Handling
Leopard geckos are generally tolerant of handling once settled. Always handle over a soft surface until you know their body language - they're not great at judging heights and will simply walk off ledges. Build up handling time gradually with a new gecko.
Vets
Leopard geckos are classed as exotic animals, standard vets cannot treat them. Find an exotic vet and register before you need one. Don't wait until something goes wrong; finding an exotic vet in an emergency wastes critical time.
Should I bathe my Leopard Gecko?
Not routinely, no. Leopard geckos are not swimmers, nor are they particularly fond of prolonged humidity.
However, a very shallow warm bath can help loosen stuck shed. Fill a tub with water at baby bath temperature, around 1cm deep, and allow the gecko to soak for about 20 minutes before gently working off any stuck shed from the toes. This is the only circumstance in which bathing is appropriate - and they will not thank you for it.
What is a Leopard Gecko morph?
Leopard geckos come in a huge array of colours and patterns, known as morphs. These are a combination of line-bred traits - selectively bred to enhance certain characteristics over generations - and single-gene traits, where two wild-type looking parents can produce a pure white or albino offspring.
Care is the same across most morphs, with the exception of a small number that suffer from cancerous tumours or neurological problems. These are thankfully rare in the UK, largely due to responsible self-policing within the breeder community - so the chances of stumbling across one unwittingly are very low.
My gecko dropped its tail - what do I do?
It is not particularly common for leopard geckos to drop their tails, but they are capable of it - and can drop either the whole tail or just a segment.
The tail will be an open wound for a short while, so it is important to move them onto paper towels to reduce the risk of infection. Keep an eye on the wound, but generally the tail will regrow over the course of around two months. During this time the skin on the tail will be very delicate, but gradually the scales will reform and some patterning will return, if your gecko is patterned.
Feed a little more generously than usual and do not skip supplementation during this process - leopard geckos store fat in their tails, and they will need the reserves.
How do I know if my Leopard Gecko is happy?
Leopard geckos are very much sit-and-wait predators. They do not range for miles or crave adventure.
However, they are very appreciative of species-appropriate enrichment.
A happy leopard gecko has plenty of tiny crevices to shove their little body into. They have the opportunity to hunt regularly - either by having insects released safely into the enclosure, or by chasing tongs. They can bask under full-spectrum lighting, eat a varied diet, and dig. They are free from unnecessary stressors like the presence of other leopard geckos and excessive or rough handling.
A happy leopard gecko is not always on display - but when they are, they are probably splooted out under the basking lamp in the early morning, eyes closed, legs splayed.
What is cryptosporidiosis and how do I know if my gecko has it?
Cryptosporidiosis, or crypto, is the great bogeyman of reptile keeping.
There is no real consensus on how common it is. Some sources suggest most reptiles carry it, but that it only becomes symptomatic when animals are otherwise unwell or under significant stress. Others suggest it is nearly always symptomatic, and that most of our pets simply do not have it.
All animals - us included - carry a load of parasites. This is entirely normal, and often the treatment is worse than simply allowing them to exist within the ecosystem of the gut. However, when an animal's immune system is compromised by stress or illness, these parasites can proliferate and begin leaching nutrients from the gut, causing rapid weight loss.
Crypto is notoriously difficult to treat. It leaches and leaches until a leopard gecko is left with a stick tail and, eventually, it kills the animal. The only treatments available are drug protocols that manage symptoms rather than reliably clear the infection.
It can be tested for via a faecal sample, though it is well known for producing false negatives.
I will say - I have tested a lot of leopard geckos over the years and have never had a positive result.
If you suspect your gecko may have crypto, seek the advice of an exotic vet as a matter of priority. Do not attempt to deworm a reptile without veterinary guidance.
Crypto in reptiles is a different species to the one that affects humans, and transmission is considered very unlikely - but as with all reptiles, washing your hands after handling is always good practice.
How do I find a lost Leopard Gecko?
If you notice a leopard gecko is missing, the first step is to double-check the enclosure. Remove everything piece by piece - every hide, every decoration, every nook and cranny.
If they have genuinely escaped, they generally follow walls and tuck under furniture, particularly somewhere warm. They may come out if you go through the motions of feeding - I have had geckos I had not even noticed were missing run out to greet me at the sound of the dubia tub coming down. You can also set traps: hides placed against walls and under furniture with a thermostatted heat mat underneath.
Do not lose hope with time. I know of a gecko who went missing and was found 11 months later. She was small, and had some minor MBD, but she was alive and reasonably well fed. They are tough little creatures and may well turn up the day you decide to hoover behind the sofa.
Are leopard geckos good pets for beginners?
My own journey with this species started by Googling this very question, and my answer is the same as the one I was given: emphatically yes.
Leopard geckos are extremely forgiving of mistakes - part of why they have been in captivity for so long is that even when knowledge on supplementation and diet was limited, they survived long enough to breed. They will not deteriorate as quickly as some more demanding species when conditions are not perfect.
They are an excellent size - large enough to hold comfortably in the palm of your hand, but not so small as to be majorly delicate like some other gecko species.
But their temperaments are what makes them truly special. They are, almost universally, remarkably easy going - handleable, straightforward to feed, and endlessly characterful. They are not as outgoing as a bearded dragon, but they will charge out of their cork bark the moment they think a cricket might be on offer. Those huge, expressive eyes do not hurt either.
Not only are they good pets for beginners - they are the best pets.
(I am biased.)
Why is my leopard gecko squeaking / making noises?
Leopard geckos are not noisy companions, but they are capable of making noise.
When surprised, or simply asking for a bit of space, they can produce anything from a small croak to a full-on banshee scream.
Hatchlings in particular are known for being extraordinarily loud when startled. Thankfully for all involved, even the loudest and most feral hatchling usually grows into the calm, easy-going adult temperament we know and love.
A squeak during handling is generally a light signal that your gecko is not happy - perhaps you held on a little too firmly when they decided to launch themselves into the void. Tut tut.
How do I buy a Leopard Gecko?
For beginners, it is best to go through a rescue or an ethical breeder. Either will be able to support you with niche questions and help ensure you find a gecko whose temperament matches your expectations.
If you are a little more experienced, sites like Gumtree nearly always have geckos in need of rehoming - but be aware that these animals are higher risk than those from vetted sources, and may require vet attention on arrival.
Why is my Leopard Gecko glass surfing?
If you spot your leopard gecko glass surfing, your first port of call should be to double-check that temperatures are within the correct ranges.
If temperatures check out, your enclosure is the correct size, adequately cluttered, and has been recently rearranged - this is a great boredom-busting trick, by the way - it may simply be hormonal.
Males especially will often attempt to find a way out in spring, in search of females. It is nothing to worry about, but worth double-checking your enclosure parameters regardless.
Care Sheet by Caitlin Griffiths
I have kept leopard geckos since 2015 - starting out, like most people, getting things quite wrong. I spent several years as a licensed breeder, holding a 5-star Animal Activities Licence with the London Borough of Southwark, during which time I hatched and raised hundreds of geckos and became deeply immersed in the husbandry, genetics, and welfare realities of keeping this species at scale. I stopped breeding in 2024 and now keep fourteen geckos, all known individually and kept to the standard I spent years working out how to achieve.
Everything on this page reflects current science-backed guidance and eleven years of hands-on experience with the species.